Ornellaia Bolgheri 2020 Magnum

Deep, lustrous crimson. Very sumptuous nose followed up by a hedonistic palate that finishes especially fresh. Ripe but not too-ripe fruit – a drier (much less sweet) vintage than usual which should age well. Unusually, there is some vestige of tannin on the finish. It's certainly possible to drink now if it's aerated before serving but ideally, I'd keep this awhile. Savoury persistence.

Rich, vibrant ruby colour with purple hues. Very open and approachable nose, clearly defined fruit, nuances of dark ripe currants, blueberries and cardamom, subtle balsamic notes in the echo. Shows lush dark berries on the palate, then dense tannins, a bit bold on the backpalate, tobacco and vanilla on the finish.

The 2020 Bolgheri Superiore Ornellaia is made with Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot with small percentages of Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. It opens to an impenetrable, full-bodied approach with dark fruit, pencil shaving, toasted oak, Spanish cedar, campfire ash and iron ore. For sure, this is an especially concentrated and oak-driven vintage of this iconic wine. It absolutely requires more aging time. It feels quite tight and firm in its youth. The concentration is abundant.

Rich plum in colour, this has heady fruit-filled aromatics, where you are taken straight to the heart of the action. Plenty of classic balsamic notes of Ornellaia, along with oange zest, fennel, damson, black cherry, damson. Juice runs through the muscular frame, with tannins that are plentiful but supple, and freshly cut herbs studded throughout draw out the flavours. A long harvest from end of August to beginning October. 70% new oak, with the blend taking place after 12 months ageing, then left for a further six months in barrel, and 12 months in bottle before release. Axel Heinz's final full vintage at the property, and it's a stormer. The pandemic vintage also, with a dramatic start in Italy, but as with all wine estates, the upside was the focus on the vineyards, with the whole team in place throughout the growing season.

Alluring aromas of lead pencil and currants with crushed stone and iodine. Full-bodied with hemmed in tannins that are tight and focused. Very fresh and energetic with wonderful length and intensity for this vintage. Needs four or five years to come together. Better in 2028 and onwards.

Estate director Axel Heinz called 2020 ‘a classic Ornellaia,’ and picked the theme of ‘La Proporzione‘ (proportion) to describe its character. Indeed, the blend of 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 32% Merlot, 13% Cabernet Franc and 5% Petit Verdot marks a return to a more typical blend following the pendulum swings of 62% Cabernet Sauvignon in 2019, and 51% Merlot in 2018. Fine-grained and beautifully textured, its finely integrated tannins support a concentration of black fruits lightened by red berries. Aromas of black cherry, liquorice, dark chocolate, cedar and damp earth make for a fragrant wine, accompanied by menthol and balsamic streaks which run through the wine and impart plenty of freshness. It finishes with a stony and salty element along with some chocolatey and woody hints. Tight and moreish, its ripeness of fruit combined with freshness and structure adeptly tells the story of this earlier-ripening vintage. It lacks complexity in the mouth – this will come with time – but the array of aromas gives a hint of what is to come.

Pouring a regal red color, the 2020 Ornellaia is sunny and inviting, with lush aromas of sweet fruits, including raspberry coulis, black cherry, dark mineral earth, cedar, and licorice candy. Expansive through the palate, it offers fabulous and polished tannins, a plush and velvety texture, and structure that’s well-balanced throughout. A mouthwatering touch of black tea on the finish rounds out this wine nicely, and it will do well to cellar.

The 2020 Ornellaia is a gorgeous, elegant wine. Seamless and wonderfully deep on the palate, the 2020 is super-refined from the outset. Even with all of its depth, the 2020 retains terrific freshness and cut to play off its soft, succulent fruit. Overall, the 2020 looks to be a relatively accessible Ornellaia that will drink well with minimal cellaring. I especially admire the precision and understated finesse here. 

Inviting aromas of blackberry, black currant, anise, cedar, vanilla and tobacco draw you in to this red, which is sleek and open on the palate. This is so well-balanced, it's approachable now, yet there's a bit of reserve too. The fruit flavors are prominent on the finish, along with mineral and spice notes, while the lasting impression is a salty, flinty element. Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot.